With its tree-lined avenues and exquisite architecture, Recoleta Cemetery is a city at slumber, a hushed reflection of the vibrant world outside its gates. As a thriving center of culture, cuisine and upscale commerce, the surrounding Recoleta district echoes with the sounds of refined life and robust living long after other neighborhoods have said good night. All-hours activity in the very shadow of a cemetery might seem strange anywhere else, but in Buenos Aires, city of delicate contradictions and gentle irony, it is charmingly appropriate.